16
News and Information / Re: Just want to say thanks...
« on: June 05, 2016, 07:36:11 AM »
We need a like button!!! Ditto what Don said!!
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17
Breeding / Re: Egg shell coloring
« on: April 11, 2016, 07:17:20 AM »
There seems to be a recent ramp up of egg color fanaticism on Facebook lately. Don't get me wrong, I am serious about egg color, too, but a recent one really has my attention. Someone posted on both pages about some BBS being sold and the breeder stating the eggs from his stock is a mint green. This has raised some discussion about whether there should be any green whatsoever in the Ameraucana egg. Someone brought up the egg color chart, and others said that if their stock laid a blue egg with even a hint of green, they would not continue to breed that chicken, etc etc.
So here's my current question about egg color...some of my girls lay a very pretty blue egg, but in different shades of light, you can see a hint of a very soft minty green...not a green egg by any means, but minty none the less. Of course the egg chart has different levels of minty green on it, and even some lavendar-ish in the lower A numbers.
Is this the consensus of the Ameraucana Breeders Club that minty green, and lots of other colors on the ABC chart are, in fact, unacceptable and should not be bred, or if they are, should be sold as EE's? I have some eggs in the incubator right now that have minty hints in the shell, and I just sold two dozen hatching eggs that on a cloudy day look minty.
Another question....if your stunning looking Ameraucana lays an egg that is not sky blue, is it dishonest to show that bird as Ameraucana? Especially since so many breeders are improving type and coloring over egg shell?
Not trying to start an argument here, but this is my first year selecting breeders, and hopefully my first year to actually enter my beauties. I want to make sure I understand and stand with the official position of my club and represent the ABC honorable.
So here's my current question about egg color...some of my girls lay a very pretty blue egg, but in different shades of light, you can see a hint of a very soft minty green...not a green egg by any means, but minty none the less. Of course the egg chart has different levels of minty green on it, and even some lavendar-ish in the lower A numbers.
Is this the consensus of the Ameraucana Breeders Club that minty green, and lots of other colors on the ABC chart are, in fact, unacceptable and should not be bred, or if they are, should be sold as EE's? I have some eggs in the incubator right now that have minty hints in the shell, and I just sold two dozen hatching eggs that on a cloudy day look minty.
Another question....if your stunning looking Ameraucana lays an egg that is not sky blue, is it dishonest to show that bird as Ameraucana? Especially since so many breeders are improving type and coloring over egg shell?
Not trying to start an argument here, but this is my first year selecting breeders, and hopefully my first year to actually enter my beauties. I want to make sure I understand and stand with the official position of my club and represent the ABC honorable.
18
Breeding / Egg shell coloring
« on: April 03, 2016, 10:45:46 AM »
So many of us are on FB in both Ameraucana pages, so a lot of us have seen the post that was placed on a different chicken page regarding egg shell colors in Ameraucanas, Araucanas, and EE's. In short, the original poster declared that after much research, she has solved the mystery of how to tell an EE from an Ameraucana and Araucana. (Am I spelling Araucana right?) She stated that any egg that is blue on the inside is a true, pure Ameraucana or Araucana, and any colored egg that is NOT blue on the inside is an EE. Obviously, this is flawed logic, and there are many breeders chiming in. But some of the comments from people who know much more than I do has me scratching my head, and although I have read the exact same information on many expert scientific articles, I am seeing something different in my own eggs.
The statement is that ALL blue eggs will be the same blue on the inside AFTER the membrane is removed completely. There is also a statement that if the "blue" egg is NOT the same blue on the inside, that it is an EE.
Scientifically, the blue shell is said to have had the oocyanine deposited through the building of the shell, therefore, logic says it will be the same color through and through. Here is my problem with the blanket statement that all blue eggs will be the same blue through and through:
I have very beautiful, very pure Ameraucanas from two different breeders who know what they are doing. I can assure you, my birds are pure Ameraucanas. I have been getting blue eggs for several months now; various shades of blue, a couple are already almost white at this point in their cycle, and some are almost a grayish blue. I am very happy with the blues on my eggs. I am almost obsessive about my shells. I don't let my family crack open any blue eggs, because I examine each blue egg for fertility and inner shell color.
Not once, not a single time, have I cracked open a blue egg, carefully cleaned the membrane off, sometimes more than one layer of membrane, have I ever had a inner shell the same color as the outer. Every. Single. Egg. is either white on the inside, or an EXTREMELY pale blue compared with the outside. Yes, I make sure I get the membrane off completely, and I do so immediately after opening the egg so as to not let it dry.
Also, this thread has many statements that all brown/tan/pink eggs will NOT have the same color as the outside since the brown "sprayer" is at the end of the tunnel. Scientific logic says that should be true. HOWEVER, I have a lovely pinkish egg from my flock (I have several breeds of several different colored egg layers) that is the exact same pinkish color on the inside as it is on the outside.
My point, either I have a flock full of mixed breed EE's and their eggs aren't really blue and I am imagining things, which means so are my kids, my hubs, and all my friends who love the multiple colored eggs I have....OR...even though scientifically ALL blue egg shells SHOULD be blue throughout, there are always exceptions, and the oocyanine is not always evenly deposited and distributed during the shell making on every blue laying hen.
Am I the only one who has painstaking cleaned the inside of a freshly laid blue egg, looking for that blue coloring, and ended up wondering why it is very pale, or even white? Is it just me? I realize this may not even matter to some, but when I read so many comments that state "if the inside shell is NOT the same blue as the outside, it is an EE", that kind of gets my attention.
Someone chime in and tell me I am not crazy! Or color blind! Or inept!
The statement is that ALL blue eggs will be the same blue on the inside AFTER the membrane is removed completely. There is also a statement that if the "blue" egg is NOT the same blue on the inside, that it is an EE.
Scientifically, the blue shell is said to have had the oocyanine deposited through the building of the shell, therefore, logic says it will be the same color through and through. Here is my problem with the blanket statement that all blue eggs will be the same blue through and through:
I have very beautiful, very pure Ameraucanas from two different breeders who know what they are doing. I can assure you, my birds are pure Ameraucanas. I have been getting blue eggs for several months now; various shades of blue, a couple are already almost white at this point in their cycle, and some are almost a grayish blue. I am very happy with the blues on my eggs. I am almost obsessive about my shells. I don't let my family crack open any blue eggs, because I examine each blue egg for fertility and inner shell color.
Not once, not a single time, have I cracked open a blue egg, carefully cleaned the membrane off, sometimes more than one layer of membrane, have I ever had a inner shell the same color as the outer. Every. Single. Egg. is either white on the inside, or an EXTREMELY pale blue compared with the outside. Yes, I make sure I get the membrane off completely, and I do so immediately after opening the egg so as to not let it dry.
Also, this thread has many statements that all brown/tan/pink eggs will NOT have the same color as the outside since the brown "sprayer" is at the end of the tunnel. Scientific logic says that should be true. HOWEVER, I have a lovely pinkish egg from my flock (I have several breeds of several different colored egg layers) that is the exact same pinkish color on the inside as it is on the outside.
My point, either I have a flock full of mixed breed EE's and their eggs aren't really blue and I am imagining things, which means so are my kids, my hubs, and all my friends who love the multiple colored eggs I have....OR...even though scientifically ALL blue egg shells SHOULD be blue throughout, there are always exceptions, and the oocyanine is not always evenly deposited and distributed during the shell making on every blue laying hen.
Am I the only one who has painstaking cleaned the inside of a freshly laid blue egg, looking for that blue coloring, and ended up wondering why it is very pale, or even white? Is it just me? I realize this may not even matter to some, but when I read so many comments that state "if the inside shell is NOT the same blue as the outside, it is an EE", that kind of gets my attention.
Someone chime in and tell me I am not crazy! Or color blind! Or inept!
19
Breeding / Re: The "Legacy" Varieties
« on: March 29, 2016, 02:54:16 PM »
I am so glad to see all this! Right now, I am weighing my birds, and I seem to have a HUGE cockerel and one TINY cockerel! I have been told before, but I cant find the answer; if the weights for adults are supposed to be 6.5/5.5, what is the leeway percentage? All of my girls are about the same size, but so far, all of my boys have been one extreme or the other!
Also, I truly hope nobody tries to change the standard to make larger Ameraucanas! I think the medium size is one of the appealing characteristics! They are petite and graceful.
For my wheaten/blue wheatens, hackle color is definitely an area I will be striving for improvement. What else keeps being a thorn among long term breeders??
Also, I truly hope nobody tries to change the standard to make larger Ameraucanas! I think the medium size is one of the appealing characteristics! They are petite and graceful.
For my wheaten/blue wheatens, hackle color is definitely an area I will be striving for improvement. What else keeps being a thorn among long term breeders??
20
Ameraucana Marketplace / Re: Splash Wheaten LF chicks or hatching eggs
« on: March 29, 2016, 02:43:30 PM »I am not sure what I will have. Hopefully something. I have put 5 Blue Wheaten hens and a Splash pullet together with my Blue Wheaten cock to work on this Splash project. This group is large fowl but I am also working with a trio of Blue Wheaten Bantams toward the Splash in the Bantams as well.
Peggy
Peggy, pretty sure I already know the answer to this, but you DO mean splash wheaten, not splash, right? Just double checking, especially for us newbies and for those who may not understand the difference.
So glad to have you working on this!
21
Ameraucana Marketplace / Re: Splash Wheaten LF chicks or hatching eggs
« on: March 26, 2016, 08:46:14 PM »
Don, I do hope to hatch some SW's later this season, but not sure how many yet. Can you direct them to the FB page for the project? https://www.facebook.com/groups/1549961135322766/
We have several breeders on there!
We have several breeders on there!
22
News and Information / Re: ABC Seeks Approval for Self Blue from APA!
« on: March 22, 2016, 08:45:31 AM »
Awesome!!!
23
Breeding / Re: Bantam Splash Wheatens
« on: March 18, 2016, 01:11:05 PM »
I hope Jean will correct me if I am wrong, since she has actually contacted the ABA about admitting new varieties. But according to the By-Laws of the ABA, the qualifying meet does have to have at least five ABA members exhibiting the minimum 25, but there isn't any rule that the members have to be members for a minimum number of years.
And also as long as I understand correctly, this "petition" for the qualifying meet with the ABA can be sent sometime after the APA petition. In fact, you would have to request it AFTER you are notified of the qualifying meet dates and locations by the APA in order to apply for the joint meet.
I have no dealings whatsoever with the self-blue effort, but perhaps if Temple and other bantam breeders get going preparing now, by the time the qualifying meets are scheduled, there very well may be enough?
Or am I in complete left field here?? Someone shut me up if I am! lol!
And also as long as I understand correctly, this "petition" for the qualifying meet with the ABA can be sent sometime after the APA petition. In fact, you would have to request it AFTER you are notified of the qualifying meet dates and locations by the APA in order to apply for the joint meet.
I have no dealings whatsoever with the self-blue effort, but perhaps if Temple and other bantam breeders get going preparing now, by the time the qualifying meets are scheduled, there very well may be enough?
Or am I in complete left field here?? Someone shut me up if I am! lol!
24
Breeding / Re: Bantam Splash Wheatens
« on: March 14, 2016, 04:34:21 PM »
Cesar, I am so sorry I didn't see your question until just now!
I have a copy of the ABA by-laws, and Jean also communicated with them directly just to verify the simplicity of it. Really, all you have to do is petition for the admittance, they select a qualifying meet where a total of 25 have to be shown (five of each; Cock, Hen, Cockerel, Pullet), and then they either accept it or not! It is really that simple.
The only problem will be the current ABA standard for splash wheaten is not good at all for the cockerel/cock. It references the red pyle, which leaves out any blue coloring. Of course, the blue coloring is one of the more striking visuals of the SW male, in my opinion. The pullet description is just fine. So what we are going to have to do is propose a description change with the ABA. We actually have to do that before we petition the APA anyway, since there can be no conflict of the description between the two. Once we all have agreed to a proposed description of the male, we will begin the communication with the ABA.
Other than that, that's it! The APA recommends petitioning both at the same time, so that is the plan right now.
Peggy, are you on facebook? We have a Splash Wheaten page. As we hatch out and raise up SW's, I am hoping for more and more pictures to come in. As we get closer to the exhibition season, I hope to have at least a couple shows coordinated with as many SW's as we can get, both LF and bantam. I believe we all will be able to decide on a proposed description by the end of this coming season after comparing the cockerels and cocks from this year. I don't plan to cull any males unless it is obvious Ameraucana defects in type or personality.
I have a copy of the ABA by-laws, and Jean also communicated with them directly just to verify the simplicity of it. Really, all you have to do is petition for the admittance, they select a qualifying meet where a total of 25 have to be shown (five of each; Cock, Hen, Cockerel, Pullet), and then they either accept it or not! It is really that simple.
The only problem will be the current ABA standard for splash wheaten is not good at all for the cockerel/cock. It references the red pyle, which leaves out any blue coloring. Of course, the blue coloring is one of the more striking visuals of the SW male, in my opinion. The pullet description is just fine. So what we are going to have to do is propose a description change with the ABA. We actually have to do that before we petition the APA anyway, since there can be no conflict of the description between the two. Once we all have agreed to a proposed description of the male, we will begin the communication with the ABA.
Other than that, that's it! The APA recommends petitioning both at the same time, so that is the plan right now.
Peggy, are you on facebook? We have a Splash Wheaten page. As we hatch out and raise up SW's, I am hoping for more and more pictures to come in. As we get closer to the exhibition season, I hope to have at least a couple shows coordinated with as many SW's as we can get, both LF and bantam. I believe we all will be able to decide on a proposed description by the end of this coming season after comparing the cockerels and cocks from this year. I don't plan to cull any males unless it is obvious Ameraucana defects in type or personality.
25
Housing, Health & Hatching / Re: Lice and Mites
« on: February 12, 2016, 11:13:52 AM »
There have been two different times I found crawlies on some of my chickens over the past two years. Both times, I dusted all of them, whether they had them or not, with DE, as well as the floors of the coops, their nesting boxes, and their favorite dust bathing spots. Both times, the crawlies were gone in a couple days. I checked them frequently for a couple weeks after just to make sure.
Now, I sprinkle DE in their coop floors since I use sand as the coop bedding and dust each bird at the start of winter and again at the start of summer for prevention. I just now checked all of the chickens since I sold my Australorps, and I didn't see a single crawly on any of them.
I have never had a full blown infestation, so I can't attest to how well DE would work in that situation, but the two times I had a small problem, it fixed it very quickly. I try to stay as natural as possible, so DE is my first choice. They consume a little, too, since they eat off the sand in their coop, and that is said to be good for internal parasites and cleansing, too, so even better.
Be careful with DE, though, for two things. You don't want to breathe it in, and you don't want them to breathe a bunch in either. Also, don't use it around gardens or flowers. It will kill bees just like it does other bugs, and we need bees! I won't use it for pest control of the garden for that reason.
Now, I sprinkle DE in their coop floors since I use sand as the coop bedding and dust each bird at the start of winter and again at the start of summer for prevention. I just now checked all of the chickens since I sold my Australorps, and I didn't see a single crawly on any of them.
I have never had a full blown infestation, so I can't attest to how well DE would work in that situation, but the two times I had a small problem, it fixed it very quickly. I try to stay as natural as possible, so DE is my first choice. They consume a little, too, since they eat off the sand in their coop, and that is said to be good for internal parasites and cleansing, too, so even better.
Be careful with DE, though, for two things. You don't want to breathe it in, and you don't want them to breathe a bunch in either. Also, don't use it around gardens or flowers. It will kill bees just like it does other bugs, and we need bees! I won't use it for pest control of the garden for that reason.
26
Housing, Health & Hatching / Re: Poultry Tractors
« on: February 12, 2016, 11:05:20 AM »
Temp was 2 degrees this morning. Yes....TWO...This morning, my chickens aren't even fluffed up! They are acting like it is spring or something! Haha! One of my Casas (Paul Smith baby from Texas) escaped as I was bringing in a feed refill...she zipped out the door super fast and excited to be free....and after a few steps, she literally stopped dead in her tracks! She looked back at me as if I was a traitor! The wind hit her, she got super still, fluffed up her feathers and wouldn't move! Haha! It was so funny! I had to go get her and put her back in the pen. She didn't try to escape after that! But that really lets me know they are cozy inside their pens. I am very happy with our set up.
The waterers have thus far passed the test, too. Water was not even a little frozen. Now tonight, it is set to dip sub zero, so we will see! But at 2 degrees, I am happy!
The waterers have thus far passed the test, too. Water was not even a little frozen. Now tonight, it is set to dip sub zero, so we will see! But at 2 degrees, I am happy!
27
Breeding / Bantam Splash Wheatens
« on: February 11, 2016, 10:00:25 PM »
I was intrigued to see that the APA actually RECOMMENDS doing the qualifying meet for Bantams at the same time as the qualifying meet for the APA! The requirements for the ABA are much less complicated, and we can coordinate these easily if we have enough breeders. Bantam breeders who will be exhibiting the SW in the qualifying meet WILL need to be ABA members at the time of the meet, but there is no requirement for number of years of membership. This qualifying meet is at LEAST two years away, but likely a bit longer due to the requirements of the APA. Lots of work to be done, but there is plenty of time to do it!
If you breed wheaten/blue wheaten/splash wheaten bantams, please consider joining this effort! I have a Facebook page dedicated to keeping everyone in the loop and coordinate the project. I also keep those who aren't on Facebook updated via email.
Please let me know if you would be interested in helping this beautiful variety be added to the Standard. We need as many dedicated breeders involved!
Thanks!
If you breed wheaten/blue wheaten/splash wheaten bantams, please consider joining this effort! I have a Facebook page dedicated to keeping everyone in the loop and coordinate the project. I also keep those who aren't on Facebook updated via email.
Please let me know if you would be interested in helping this beautiful variety be added to the Standard. We need as many dedicated breeders involved!
Thanks!
28
Housing, Health & Hatching / Re: Poultry Tractors
« on: February 11, 2016, 09:24:09 PM »
Gordon, 31 designated breeding cages and pens??? 31?? WOW!
I have no clue how many watts each one uses! But I can tell you, with four plugged in, I have notice zero change in our electric bill. Our heat is not electric, so the bill is pretty steady this time of year, and there hasn't been any change.
Let me know what you think of the waterer! Don't carry it upside down by the base! Hold the whole thing, or you will be laughing at yourself later!
We are set to go subzero Saturday, and today was very windy and cold in the low teens. We brought all of the waterers in today for a good scrubbing, and I made them some cream of wheat and flax meal mixed in. Inside the pens was SIGNIFICANTLY nicer than out of them. I need to put a thermometer inside their coops...
I have no clue how many watts each one uses! But I can tell you, with four plugged in, I have notice zero change in our electric bill. Our heat is not electric, so the bill is pretty steady this time of year, and there hasn't been any change.
Let me know what you think of the waterer! Don't carry it upside down by the base! Hold the whole thing, or you will be laughing at yourself later!
We are set to go subzero Saturday, and today was very windy and cold in the low teens. We brought all of the waterers in today for a good scrubbing, and I made them some cream of wheat and flax meal mixed in. Inside the pens was SIGNIFICANTLY nicer than out of them. I need to put a thermometer inside their coops...
29
Breeding / Breeding youngins
« on: February 08, 2016, 09:31:43 AM »
This will be my first year hatching Ameraucanas. Last year was my first hatching at all, but this thread is specific to Ameraucana breeding with the intention of bettering the wheaten/blue wheaten/splash wheaten variety.
I have fully experienced the truth behind the length of time it takes for this variety to fully mature! Three of my Ameraucanas are just over a year old, and they still seem to be changing slightly week by week. My little darlins from Paul and Angela are only 8 months old now, and Marley, my late blooming wheaten cockerel is JUST NOW going through adolescence! My questions are going to be centered around the age to begin hatching.
I have read a couple places that recommend not even trying to hatch from Wheatens who are less than a year old. There was a ditty about the hatch rate, health of the chicks, defects not showing on the cockerel and pullets yet, etc. I would like to hear some opinions from some multi year breeders, especially from the wheatens, but from other varieties of Ameraucanas as well. My New Hampshires, Delawares and Barred Rocks matured extremely early, so I am not as concerned about them.
It is not imperative that I breed any of these this year. I am patient, and can wait if it will save me some frustration and allow me to have a more successful test hatch. I don't have unlimited funds, so I have to be wise with what I do with my program, as I run a family of 9, and need to be a good steward of all the Lord has blessed me, too.
While I am at it, let me share a recent picture of my late bloomer, Marley! He is 8 months old, this picture was a couple weeks ago, but a couple weeks before that, he looked like a 4 month old still! He is in his puberty, for sure!! I am excited for him!
I have fully experienced the truth behind the length of time it takes for this variety to fully mature! Three of my Ameraucanas are just over a year old, and they still seem to be changing slightly week by week. My little darlins from Paul and Angela are only 8 months old now, and Marley, my late blooming wheaten cockerel is JUST NOW going through adolescence! My questions are going to be centered around the age to begin hatching.
I have read a couple places that recommend not even trying to hatch from Wheatens who are less than a year old. There was a ditty about the hatch rate, health of the chicks, defects not showing on the cockerel and pullets yet, etc. I would like to hear some opinions from some multi year breeders, especially from the wheatens, but from other varieties of Ameraucanas as well. My New Hampshires, Delawares and Barred Rocks matured extremely early, so I am not as concerned about them.
It is not imperative that I breed any of these this year. I am patient, and can wait if it will save me some frustration and allow me to have a more successful test hatch. I don't have unlimited funds, so I have to be wise with what I do with my program, as I run a family of 9, and need to be a good steward of all the Lord has blessed me, too.
While I am at it, let me share a recent picture of my late bloomer, Marley! He is 8 months old, this picture was a couple weeks ago, but a couple weeks before that, he looked like a 4 month old still! He is in his puberty, for sure!! I am excited for him!
30
Housing, Health & Hatching / Re: Poultry Tractors
« on: February 06, 2016, 05:43:25 AM »
Yes, I saw those reviews, too! I have to chuckle. The first waterer I ever used was the same style as these without the heated part. I vividly remember trying to fill the thing without getting soaked myself! After a few times of giving myself a bath with apple cider vinegar water, I figured out you have to be smarter than the plastic. lol
I now carry two gallon pitchers out to the pen with a small funnel. I turn the waterer upside down, and yes, a little of the water pours out. I use that to my advantage, because as we all know, chickens dirty their water, so this lets me rinse the basin and clean it a bit right there. Using a funnel makes for a much drier filling up. The stoppers are very secure, even in the frigid cold. They haven't leaked for me. When I turn the waterer back up, I figured out if I turn the side with the little water channel side going over the top and down (if that makes sense), then less water comes out.
Now, I also learned the hard way (as did my 11 year old son) that you probably shouldn't carry three gallons of water by hanging on to the base. It is inevitable that the weight and the movement of you walking is going to be a fun disaster and the base is going to give. I don't carry it that way anymore. The days that we bring the whole thing in to wash it and fill it inside, we carry it by holding the whole thing. No more fun disasters.
And yes, if it is unlevel, water will pour out, at different speeds depending on how unlevel it is. This is true even for pans. That is why they come with a handy hanging rod. Hang it up, gravity levels it, no leaking.
So in short, yes, the first time I used a waterer of this style, there was a time of learning the best way to handle them. But once I figured it out, operator errors became fewer and more far between. The only reason I like this particular waterer over the one I bought last year is this one is a bit easier to secure the base back on after washing and filling. The first one you really had to work to line up the tabs. Not fun when it is super cold outside, and the stopper (for funnel usage) was a pain to secure, while this new one is much easier.
Last year, we were below zero every day for two-three weeks straight, and then several times after that. The only time the water froze was when there was just a little bit of water in there. I don't let them get that low anymore. This year, we have gotten below zero, so I can't say how the new model will do yet. But in the single digits, it has done beautifully.
So I guess all that is to say the majority of those negative reviews are truly due to operator error and people like me learning how to best work the things. I hate that people give bad reviews based on operator errors, instead of just laugh at themselves and go dry off like my son and I do.
I now carry two gallon pitchers out to the pen with a small funnel. I turn the waterer upside down, and yes, a little of the water pours out. I use that to my advantage, because as we all know, chickens dirty their water, so this lets me rinse the basin and clean it a bit right there. Using a funnel makes for a much drier filling up. The stoppers are very secure, even in the frigid cold. They haven't leaked for me. When I turn the waterer back up, I figured out if I turn the side with the little water channel side going over the top and down (if that makes sense), then less water comes out.
Now, I also learned the hard way (as did my 11 year old son) that you probably shouldn't carry three gallons of water by hanging on to the base. It is inevitable that the weight and the movement of you walking is going to be a fun disaster and the base is going to give. I don't carry it that way anymore. The days that we bring the whole thing in to wash it and fill it inside, we carry it by holding the whole thing. No more fun disasters.
And yes, if it is unlevel, water will pour out, at different speeds depending on how unlevel it is. This is true even for pans. That is why they come with a handy hanging rod. Hang it up, gravity levels it, no leaking.
So in short, yes, the first time I used a waterer of this style, there was a time of learning the best way to handle them. But once I figured it out, operator errors became fewer and more far between. The only reason I like this particular waterer over the one I bought last year is this one is a bit easier to secure the base back on after washing and filling. The first one you really had to work to line up the tabs. Not fun when it is super cold outside, and the stopper (for funnel usage) was a pain to secure, while this new one is much easier.
Last year, we were below zero every day for two-three weeks straight, and then several times after that. The only time the water froze was when there was just a little bit of water in there. I don't let them get that low anymore. This year, we have gotten below zero, so I can't say how the new model will do yet. But in the single digits, it has done beautifully.
So I guess all that is to say the majority of those negative reviews are truly due to operator error and people like me learning how to best work the things. I hate that people give bad reviews based on operator errors, instead of just laugh at themselves and go dry off like my son and I do.