16
News and Information / Re: Ameraucana Breeders Club - Statement from the Board of Directors
« on: March 10, 2015, 01:43:07 PM »
I like your style Denise. Nicely said. 
News:
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18
Breeding / Re: Laced Blue Ameraucana
« on: March 10, 2015, 12:59:21 PM »
I'm not sure how I missed Max's post showing off his blue Andalusians, but oh lala...such exquisite lacing almost takes my breath away! 
I'm still searching for the right bird (and genes) to introduce lacing into my flock, but in the meantime will be living vicariously through all of you. Sure would be great to hear (and see) how everyone's lacing projects are coming along!
I'm still searching for the right bird (and genes) to introduce lacing into my flock, but in the meantime will be living vicariously through all of you. Sure would be great to hear (and see) how everyone's lacing projects are coming along!
19
Housing, Health & Hatching / Re: Chick with soft, swollen crop?!
« on: September 11, 2014, 10:02:21 AM »
No feathers ruffled here Russ. In fact, I appreciate your candor.
Culling was my first instinct too. When I first got serious about breeding standard-bred poultry, I vowed that nothing weak, unfit, defective or carrying unsavory recessives known to me would ever leave this farm. And I’m happy to say nothing has. I call it selection. I also do not vaccinate and believe in breeding for disease resistance. A fellow fancier once told me the only real medication I’ll ever need is this:
…actually, his was an axe. I just prefer my machete. Same result in the end though….and a much healthier flock for it.
Because this chick is from an unfamiliar strain that is new to me, I thought perhaps the impacted crop was a feed issue on my end, and therefore curable, and preventable. (I use both dry and wet mash). None of my home flock, or their offspring, have ever had crop issues before this. Which could be coincidence…or not. I am not willing to take that chance.
Also, I think the chick may have developed ‘pendulous crop’, which HAS been proven to be heredity in turkeys….so reason follows that it could be in other land fowl as well. The chick is recovering, yet its stretched out crop still hangs low (even when empty) and doesn’t look like it will return to normal any time soon…if ever. I know what I have to do now, and likely what I should have done from the get go….still doesn’t make it any easier though.
Sigh... I knew it was going to be one of those days when I heard it’s snowing in Calgary, 8 hrs west of here.
Culling was my first instinct too. When I first got serious about breeding standard-bred poultry, I vowed that nothing weak, unfit, defective or carrying unsavory recessives known to me would ever leave this farm. And I’m happy to say nothing has. I call it selection. I also do not vaccinate and believe in breeding for disease resistance. A fellow fancier once told me the only real medication I’ll ever need is this:
…actually, his was an axe. I just prefer my machete. Same result in the end though….and a much healthier flock for it.
Because this chick is from an unfamiliar strain that is new to me, I thought perhaps the impacted crop was a feed issue on my end, and therefore curable, and preventable. (I use both dry and wet mash). None of my home flock, or their offspring, have ever had crop issues before this. Which could be coincidence…or not. I am not willing to take that chance.
Also, I think the chick may have developed ‘pendulous crop’, which HAS been proven to be heredity in turkeys….so reason follows that it could be in other land fowl as well. The chick is recovering, yet its stretched out crop still hangs low (even when empty) and doesn’t look like it will return to normal any time soon…if ever. I know what I have to do now, and likely what I should have done from the get go….still doesn’t make it any easier though.
Sigh... I knew it was going to be one of those days when I heard it’s snowing in Calgary, 8 hrs west of here.
20
Breeding / Re: Splash rooster
« on: September 06, 2014, 11:35:17 AM »
Interesting observations Harry, thank you for sharing them.
21
Housing, Health & Hatching / Re: Chick with soft, swollen crop?!
« on: September 06, 2014, 11:18:44 AM »
I'm happy to report the chick is doing better! The next morning after I posted she passed what appeared to be a long, stringy piece of grass, so that may have been what caused/or attributed to the bound crop issue. Over eating probably didn't help, (the crop seems stretched out to me, hopefully it will shrink back down soon) so I have her separated with a small amount of wet mash to peck at and acv water to drink. I tried fashioning a vet-wrap band to hold the crop area up, but she keeps getting out of it somehow. Gah. Maybe need to break out the duct tape. 
As for the air under the skin, I think the chick may have air sac trauma/emphysema. Because everything seems to fit.
".....Some of the bones of the avian skeleton are hollow and connected to the air sacs of the respiratory
system ........There are eight air sacs in most species of birds. There are one cervical and one clavicular air sac, and two cranial thoracic, two caudal thoracic, and two abdominal air sacs. Occasionally, an air sac may rupture, and the bird may develop air under the skin (subcutaneous emphysema) or a large swelling of air in the neck region........."
"Subcutaneous Emphysema: This term merely means, "gas under the skin". The gas is usually air, which has penetrated the subcutaneous tissues through a skin wound, or as the result of damage to part of the respiratory system. Some writers have described how air has been pumped into the surrounding tissues by the tongue and other muscular movements associated with swallowing, from a wound caused by something sharp in the pharynx or the throat. The accumulated air then diffuses down the neck and produces a puffiness of the overlying skin.
The mechanism in all cases is similar. Puncture wounds and cuts involving layers of skin and muscles do not stay immediately opposite one another, since the layers slide over each other during movement. If the surface layer is concave and its elasticity allows it to lift, then air is drawn in. The air is then trapped and is pushed on the easiest course, which is along the planes between skin and muscle or between layers of muscles. After moving, the air becomes halted within the fat and connective tissues in the form of bubbles, which crackle when the region is handled. Common sites of emphysema are the groin, the 'armpits', neck, entrance to the chest and over the shoulders. This type of emphysema is harmless but can be alarming to the owner, especially when the bird blows up into a grotesque shape within a few hours.
Once access of air is stopped, however, the gases are slowly absorbed. Part of the air can usually be removed with a hypodermic needle and syringe, but the tissues will refill if the point of entry is not closed. A purse-string suture can be used to close a small external wound, but throat wounds or air sac ruptures without skin wounds, are impossible to repair surgically. Time will slowly heal most of them, but there is always the danger that air, which carries dust and has not been filtered through the respiratory tract will result in inflammation and the formation of exudates which may block the air sacs and lead to pneumonia. Fungi, such as Aspergillus, and numerous bacteria flourish in these warm, moist and aerated wounds.
There is no effective cure for aspergillosis, but for bacterial infections the usual treatments for wounds should be used. Creams and ointments are useful for such lesions as they seal the wound; further protection can be applied by using a plastic skin in a solvent form as an aerosol sprayed on the affected parts. Avian vets today have a few medications they can try, but there is no positive cure.
Emphysema can also arise when certain gas-forming anaerobic bacteria related to those which cause the smell in gangrene, multiply in a deep and therefore airless wound. Such changes are preceded by obvious illness and loss of function of the part concerned, it showing reddish, green or black discoloration associated with coldness and insensitivity. This usually follows upon a very severe and probably painful inflammation. By the time the puffiness is apparent the bird is usually dying or dead. Although injections of penicillin, ampicillin or certain other broad-spectrum antibiotics are likely to be the most effective forms of treatment; they are usually administered too late for any hope of recovery. "
http://dlhunicorn.conforums.com/index.cgi?board=emergencies&action=display&num=1161887881
Sharon, the area deflates, but slowly fills back up again. So I've been deflating the air sac 3x daily and will continue to do so for the next week. Hopefully that will be enough time to give the (internal) rupture a chance to heal, and let the antibiotics kick in. She really is a nice little chick.
Thanks again for your help.
As for the air under the skin, I think the chick may have air sac trauma/emphysema. Because everything seems to fit.
".....Some of the bones of the avian skeleton are hollow and connected to the air sacs of the respiratory
system ........There are eight air sacs in most species of birds. There are one cervical and one clavicular air sac, and two cranial thoracic, two caudal thoracic, and two abdominal air sacs. Occasionally, an air sac may rupture, and the bird may develop air under the skin (subcutaneous emphysema) or a large swelling of air in the neck region........."
"Subcutaneous Emphysema: This term merely means, "gas under the skin". The gas is usually air, which has penetrated the subcutaneous tissues through a skin wound, or as the result of damage to part of the respiratory system. Some writers have described how air has been pumped into the surrounding tissues by the tongue and other muscular movements associated with swallowing, from a wound caused by something sharp in the pharynx or the throat. The accumulated air then diffuses down the neck and produces a puffiness of the overlying skin.
The mechanism in all cases is similar. Puncture wounds and cuts involving layers of skin and muscles do not stay immediately opposite one another, since the layers slide over each other during movement. If the surface layer is concave and its elasticity allows it to lift, then air is drawn in. The air is then trapped and is pushed on the easiest course, which is along the planes between skin and muscle or between layers of muscles. After moving, the air becomes halted within the fat and connective tissues in the form of bubbles, which crackle when the region is handled. Common sites of emphysema are the groin, the 'armpits', neck, entrance to the chest and over the shoulders. This type of emphysema is harmless but can be alarming to the owner, especially when the bird blows up into a grotesque shape within a few hours.
Once access of air is stopped, however, the gases are slowly absorbed. Part of the air can usually be removed with a hypodermic needle and syringe, but the tissues will refill if the point of entry is not closed. A purse-string suture can be used to close a small external wound, but throat wounds or air sac ruptures without skin wounds, are impossible to repair surgically. Time will slowly heal most of them, but there is always the danger that air, which carries dust and has not been filtered through the respiratory tract will result in inflammation and the formation of exudates which may block the air sacs and lead to pneumonia. Fungi, such as Aspergillus, and numerous bacteria flourish in these warm, moist and aerated wounds.
There is no effective cure for aspergillosis, but for bacterial infections the usual treatments for wounds should be used. Creams and ointments are useful for such lesions as they seal the wound; further protection can be applied by using a plastic skin in a solvent form as an aerosol sprayed on the affected parts. Avian vets today have a few medications they can try, but there is no positive cure.
Emphysema can also arise when certain gas-forming anaerobic bacteria related to those which cause the smell in gangrene, multiply in a deep and therefore airless wound. Such changes are preceded by obvious illness and loss of function of the part concerned, it showing reddish, green or black discoloration associated with coldness and insensitivity. This usually follows upon a very severe and probably painful inflammation. By the time the puffiness is apparent the bird is usually dying or dead. Although injections of penicillin, ampicillin or certain other broad-spectrum antibiotics are likely to be the most effective forms of treatment; they are usually administered too late for any hope of recovery. "
http://dlhunicorn.conforums.com/index.cgi?board=emergencies&action=display&num=1161887881
Sharon, the area deflates, but slowly fills back up again. So I've been deflating the air sac 3x daily and will continue to do so for the next week. Hopefully that will be enough time to give the (internal) rupture a chance to heal, and let the antibiotics kick in. She really is a nice little chick.
Thanks again for your help.
22
Housing, Health & Hatching / Re: Chick with soft, swollen crop?!
« on: September 03, 2014, 10:57:25 AM »
Thank you Sharon, Clif, for your help.
I researched ‘bound crop’, and managed to get the chick to regurgitate. (Sharon, your step by step instructions were invaluable here, thank you so much!) Nothing came up out of the ordinary that I could see…and no sour odour either. I’m not sure I got enough stuff out though, so am going to try again this morning…just need to work up my java courage first.
I also did as Clif advised and let the air out from under the skin with a small needle and syringe. It literally deflated like a punctured balloon! And I think you’re spot on about the chick having an infection Clif, because its skin is quite warm to touch. The only antibiotic I have on hand is Pen-G, so may try that until I can get to town, and the local Agro that carries oxytetracycline. Kicking myself for not having some around!
I researched ‘bound crop’, and managed to get the chick to regurgitate. (Sharon, your step by step instructions were invaluable here, thank you so much!) Nothing came up out of the ordinary that I could see…and no sour odour either. I’m not sure I got enough stuff out though, so am going to try again this morning…just need to work up my java courage first.
I also did as Clif advised and let the air out from under the skin with a small needle and syringe. It literally deflated like a punctured balloon! And I think you’re spot on about the chick having an infection Clif, because its skin is quite warm to touch. The only antibiotic I have on hand is Pen-G, so may try that until I can get to town, and the local Agro that carries oxytetracycline. Kicking myself for not having some around!
23
Housing, Health & Hatching / Chick with soft, swollen crop?!
« on: September 02, 2014, 02:07:43 PM »
At least I think it’s the crop that’s swollen…but there is definitely something else (air?) under the skin.
Slight swelling under the right wing as well...
The chick is 5 weeks old and acts completely normal otherwise, eating and drinking and running around. Everyone else in the group is fed the same feed (both dry and fermented) and have access to grit as well. Could it be an internal injury of some kind? I checked the chick over, but couldn’t find any kind of outside wound...
So weird. I’ve just never seen anything like this before. I'm debating whether or not to cull...and of course it's one of my import chicks.
Any advice/opinions would be most appreciated, thank you!
Slight swelling under the right wing as well...
The chick is 5 weeks old and acts completely normal otherwise, eating and drinking and running around. Everyone else in the group is fed the same feed (both dry and fermented) and have access to grit as well. Could it be an internal injury of some kind? I checked the chick over, but couldn’t find any kind of outside wound...
So weird. I’ve just never seen anything like this before. I'm debating whether or not to cull...and of course it's one of my import chicks.
Any advice/opinions would be most appreciated, thank you!
24
Housing, Health & Hatching / Re: Brooder heaters
« on: September 02, 2014, 11:14:55 AM »
I never had any problems with moisture, Max. I used the heat plates on top old towels for the first 24 hrs, then atop a mixture of clean (but not too clean, I always leave a little old litter to get mixed in) straw and peat moss. The peat moss is real good for keeping litter dry…and great for the garden too. 
And once the chicks move to the brooder house (around 5-7 days, those tubs are only temporary) I keep their waters raised up about chick chest level, so the water stays cleaner a lot longer. Bricks work good, or those small round patio stones you can find at the hardware store.
Inside the brooder house (also doubles as a wood shed)
The real test will be how well the plates work outdoors! Hopefully by next spring I will have something built so the chicks can be on ground from day one.
Oh, and I believe Premier sells a neat little waterer that’s meant to sit on top the heat plates, and chicks can drink from the side. I regret not getting one to try!
DeWayne, I use straw because it’s cheap and abundant in my area. Sawdust sounds good, but I’m not sure where I’d ever find enough to use for bedding. I go through quite a bit every season. I tried pine shavings a few times, and liked them well enough, but switched back to straw because of cost. With the ever rising expense of feed and grain, I need to save where I can. But I know what you mean about fire…*shiver*
That must have been very scary finding that. Glad it wasn’t worse! I do use secure chains on all my heat lights, but still worry because anything can happen…and usually does when no one is home.
Duane, what kind of heat plates do you use? I'm really liking the looks of the sweeter heater for an outdoor setup, as it looks like it could be built/wired right in.
And once the chicks move to the brooder house (around 5-7 days, those tubs are only temporary) I keep their waters raised up about chick chest level, so the water stays cleaner a lot longer. Bricks work good, or those small round patio stones you can find at the hardware store. Inside the brooder house (also doubles as a wood shed)
The real test will be how well the plates work outdoors! Hopefully by next spring I will have something built so the chicks can be on ground from day one.
Oh, and I believe Premier sells a neat little waterer that’s meant to sit on top the heat plates, and chicks can drink from the side. I regret not getting one to try!
DeWayne, I use straw because it’s cheap and abundant in my area. Sawdust sounds good, but I’m not sure where I’d ever find enough to use for bedding. I go through quite a bit every season. I tried pine shavings a few times, and liked them well enough, but switched back to straw because of cost. With the ever rising expense of feed and grain, I need to save where I can. But I know what you mean about fire…*shiver*
That must have been very scary finding that. Glad it wasn’t worse! I do use secure chains on all my heat lights, but still worry because anything can happen…and usually does when no one is home.
Duane, what kind of heat plates do you use? I'm really liking the looks of the sweeter heater for an outdoor setup, as it looks like it could be built/wired right in.
25
Housing, Health & Hatching / Re: Brooder heaters
« on: September 01, 2014, 10:45:57 AM »
I’ve never used the ceramic bulbs myself. But I did use something new for brooding this year called comfort heat plates. They look pretty similar to the sweeter heater Mike posted. The large plate broods up to 50 chicks, and uses 62 watts, and the small plate can brood up to 20 chicks, and uses 22 watts. The energy savings alone make contact heaters appealing, and well worth the initial cost imo.
What I liked best though, was how content the chicks brooded under the plates were, as well as being noticeably calmer. Whenever cold or frightened, they could duck under the security of the plate, just as they would with a broody. I think having a more natural day/night cycle is good for overall growth and health as well. 24/7 light was something I never liked about the bulbs. That and always worrying about a farmers worst fear…fire.
Brooder comparison test
Comfort is…warmth and security.
What I liked best though, was how content the chicks brooded under the plates were, as well as being noticeably calmer. Whenever cold or frightened, they could duck under the security of the plate, just as they would with a broody. I think having a more natural day/night cycle is good for overall growth and health as well. 24/7 light was something I never liked about the bulbs. That and always worrying about a farmers worst fear…fire.
Brooder comparison test
Comfort is…warmth and security.
26
Breeding / Re: A tinsel blue?
« on: August 30, 2014, 11:46:04 AM »
Ok, found the pics. I didn't crop them for fear of blow up, but hopefully you can still make out the rusty gold leakage around the feathers edges. Not saying this is what you have, but it looks somewhat similar.
27
Exhibiting & Promoting / Re: Project Colors and the APA
« on: August 30, 2014, 11:15:11 AM »
Good food for thought here.
I’m not a member of the APA (yet), although I do own an SOP and reference it a lot. But I do see the importance of supporting an organization that is almost 150 years old and full of dedicated folks committed to maintaining a written Standard for the breeds within. While I do not agree with everything they are doing, (John makes good points) without the SOP and the governing body of the APA, the genetic diversity we enjoy today may have been lost years ago. As it stands, they help to keep the collective gene pool broad and deep across North America, which only benefits us all. Plus, the SOP keeps everyone on the right track in their breeding programs. Without such guidance, breeds that took 50 years or more to develop could be gone in the blink of an eye. And what a true shame that would be... I’m also fairly new to poultry (since 2009) and to breeding poultry (my real obsession began in earnest in 2010) and have much to learn. And I do want to learn…
Fascinating how it all worked out…
I’m not a member of the APA (yet), although I do own an SOP and reference it a lot. But I do see the importance of supporting an organization that is almost 150 years old and full of dedicated folks committed to maintaining a written Standard for the breeds within. While I do not agree with everything they are doing, (John makes good points) without the SOP and the governing body of the APA, the genetic diversity we enjoy today may have been lost years ago. As it stands, they help to keep the collective gene pool broad and deep across North America, which only benefits us all. Plus, the SOP keeps everyone on the right track in their breeding programs. Without such guidance, breeds that took 50 years or more to develop could be gone in the blink of an eye. And what a true shame that would be... I’m also fairly new to poultry (since 2009) and to breeding poultry (my real obsession began in earnest in 2010) and have much to learn. And I do want to learn…
Cliff, it was actually the ABA who recognized Ameraucanas first. ABA recognition came in 1980, the APA not until 1984. The large fowl Ameraucanas came in on the coat tails of the bantams, the LF without even a qualifying meet. We in the Ameraucana Bantam Club at the time were surprised to say the least. After the announcement was made, I worked with John Skinner of the University of Wisconsin, then chairman of the APA Standards Committee, to re-word the bantam Standard for the APA. John did the primary work, but submitted it to us for comments and revisions. He got a bad rap from Don and a few others, but he was as impartial as anyone could be. Prior to the APA qualifying meet for bantams (Ohio National, 1983) John had encouraged us to work with Tom Lippincott's group based in Ohio to form a unified Ameraucana Standard, but we had already been approved by the ABA, and Tom would not cooperate with us. His birds had mostly yellow and willow shanks, so I suppose that was the main reason.
Fascinating how it all worked out…
28
Exhibiting & Promoting / Re: Fall newsletter
« on: August 30, 2014, 10:51:05 AM »
I thought the bulletin was pretty snazzy too. Nice job indeed.
29
Breeding / Re: Blue Silver LF
« on: August 30, 2014, 10:44:36 AM »
Thanks Chris, I will do that. I wish it were easier to share stock across the border, because I have plenty of extras too. Maybe one day....
Ya, bring on the pictures folks! We vant to see your birds!
Ya, bring on the pictures folks! We vant to see your birds!
30
Breeding / Re: Wheaten Cockerel at 6 months
« on: August 30, 2014, 10:38:40 AM »
Well, the high quality food (and care) are definitely showing. He really is lovely… and oh so shiny. Lol
Linda, I am learning too. The S curve is not an official term to my knowledge, but something I noticed within my flock and have been trying to breed away from. I like a nice, tight pea comb, low to the head and straight as a board. Unfortunately, the hens do not agree with me. They seem to be most attracted to males with the biggest, reddest headgear….who usually turn out to be the most hardy and vigorous of specimens. Hence why I’m still dealing with the S curve, lol…
Here is one of my breeders with the S in her blob of a comb. She has other obvious faults, but don’t tell her that. She is top hen and coveted by ALL the roosters, so probably wouldn't believe us anyway.
She’s also a good layer, extremely fertile and has wonderful hatchability in her offspring.
Some of her blue split sons, showing the S curve to varying degrees.
But as Tailfeathers said, combs really are a minor point in the end. Especially considering your cockerels other attributes.
I can't wait to see him again around 12 months, all grown up and filled out!
Linda, I am learning too.
The S curve is not an official term to my knowledge, but something I noticed within my flock and have been trying to breed away from. I like a nice, tight pea comb, low to the head and straight as a board. Unfortunately, the hens do not agree with me. They seem to be most attracted to males with the biggest, reddest headgear….who usually turn out to be the most hardy and vigorous of specimens. Hence why I’m still dealing with the S curve, lol…Here is one of my breeders with the S in her blob of a comb. She has other obvious faults, but don’t tell her that. She is top hen and coveted by ALL the roosters, so probably wouldn't believe us anyway.
She’s also a good layer, extremely fertile and has wonderful hatchability in her offspring. 
Some of her blue split sons, showing the S curve to varying degrees.
But as Tailfeathers said, combs really are a minor point in the end. Especially considering your cockerels other attributes.
I can't wait to see him again around 12 months, all grown up and filled out!