Suggestions and pictures for how to build coops/runs

[vanalpaca]

I currently have 30 Ameraucanas BBS, WBW, Buff and to separate them by breeding flocks, I will need at least 6 enclosures.

I currently have a tarp and wire/cattle panel with a dog house tied up to the chainlink fence with metal roofing around the sides. It works for most days except no real entrance as the gate is braced up and covered with wire/tarps and some posts to keep it up that I have to take down when I want to get into the enclosure.

The hen house needs a real door as it is another braced up affair and the most successful one is the hoop coop.

My construction skills are extremely lacking and I'm having a hard time finding any of the large fencing staples for attaching dog wire to wood. Putting the corners of a building together also seems exceptionally hard.

My 3 current structures are time proven to be predator proof, and sometimes human proof...

So I am hoping for some PHOTOS of current working structures. I was even thinking of just trying to build an end that would include an access door for me, but I really do need to have some nestboxes or /pails/ along one side and outside access for egg collection would be ideal.

Thanks, just time to wrestle with a hammer and saw again......

[John]

having a hard time finding any of the large fencing staples for attaching dog wire to wood.

Instead of using fence staples years ago I started using cable staples...the kind used to fasten electrical wiring to the framing in a building...to fasten welded wire to woodwork.  I generally don't drive them all the way home, so they are easier to remove when that day comes.

[Birdcrazy]

Do it Best Hardware has a 3/4 inch galv poultry netting staple in 1# boxes. The SKU # is 720722 and a suggested retail of $ 3.79 a box. If your local Do it Best does not stock this item, they can order this item by one box at a time or larger multiples.

[vanalpaca]

I have a hammer, not a staple gun. I used to be able to get strong electrical wire 'staples' that had a flattened top and were very sturdy like the 14 gauge dogwire. I can't find anything like them now. Just the rounded fence staples and lots of products used in staple guns.

I was thinking to use dog wire fencing for the roof and frame it with 2x3's. Staple the fencing to the rectangular wood frame and use hinges to connect the 2 panels together to form the roof into a peak and cover it with the heavy duty tarp. Then use 2x4 framed 2x8 foot plywood for the bottom walls. I would have to build a wooden end with plywood/wire at each end and figured one end would be the door and put nestbox compartment with a lift lid at the other end.

I'm not sure right now how big a stable structure would be or if it will be lightweight enough to become a 'tractor'. But using 4 ft high fencing should make the roof 6.5 to 7 foot wide with a 1 foot rise.

Just putting it down here, sounds like a pretty LOW structure, so I might have to add some to the sides to make it higher.

Anyone here into quick and easy structures for bird keeping? I'm just not a good carpenter and a really bad engineer.....Thanks!

[Birdcrazy]

Bonnie, The staples you described are the ones John mentioned in answer to your post. They are called cable staples and are about 3/4" wide and 1-1/4" long. I looked on Ace Hardware website, but did not find them. If you have a Do it Best hardware or lumberyard near by they should be able to order them for you if they don't stock them. The SKU # is 501013. They come in boxes of 100 with a suggested retail of $7.19. I hope this helps.

[John]

about 3/4" wide

Actually you can get them 1/2" wide or 9/16" generally at any home improvement store.  A jar of 500 is $4.39 on-line at Menard's...

Metal Staple, 1/2 inch
Model Number: MS-500J  |  Menards® SKU: 3648004
Online Price $4.39
Secures Romex wire and other types of non-metallic cable.
•Recessed head drives faster and protects cable insulation.
•14/2, 12/2, 10/2
•500/Jar

[vanalpaca]

Finally found my staples and dogwire at 5 ft tall was only $2 more than 4 ft, so I got that. Next problem was my short wire cutters wouldn't cut the dogwire, so another trip to Lowes and now I should be set with the 14" bolt cutters.

My idea is 2 5x8 sections stapled to 2x4's and hinged together for the roof. Then a little experimenting to see how high to make the sides.

The roosters have done fine for 2 winters with the hoop houses and just 2 corner walls of plywood for wind shelter with a tarp roof.

Then laying hens are currently in a plywood 8x8x4H structure with a peaked roof and it is really dark inside as light only comes in from the east starting at 4 ft up and to the peak. Problem in there is that the eggs freeze or at least chill.

How to I get a structure so I can collect the eggs and incubate them. I was thinking maybe the pipe heating wire around the 5 gal nestbox buckets might do the trick but I am fishing here for better ideas. I could build a shelf underthem and wood back with a lift top and cut holes in the top back of the buckets and have that structure mounted sticking out of the henhouse. It would be nice to be able to use some of these eggs instead of them being froze/chilled....

Big thanks!

[John]

I'm not sure what dogwire is, but if you need bolt cutters it sounds like chain-link fence.  I use 2 by 4 welded wire.  The 14 gauge cuts easily with side cutters.

[dixieland]

How to I get a structure so I can collect the eggs and incubate them. I was thinking maybe the pipe heating wire around the 5 gal nestbox buckets might do the trick but I am fishing here for better ideas. I could build a shelf underthem and wood back with a lift top and cut holes in the top back of the buckets and have that structure mounted sticking out of the henhouse. It would be nice to be able to use some of these eggs instead of them being froze/chilled....

Big thanks!

This is NOT a paid endorsement, but I LOVE LOVE LOVE John's Fowl Stuff nesting boxes. They are in fact based on the 5gallon bucket, but they have perfected it above and beyond what any of us (except John) have the ability or equipment to fabricate at home. The Hens love them, and they are very easy to keep clean and sanitized, the eggs seem to stay cleaner in them as well....

[vanalpaca]

Jess, mine do the buckets, just need to get them off the ground and mounted and accessible from outside the coop AND keep the eggs from freezing/chilling so I can hatch early....I'm slow getting things done up properly.

Just way too much going on, but busy people thrive on that, right??


(Last year this time we were outside freezing and building a 12x16 lean to for livestock), right now the furnace guy is putting in a new furnace and running new duct for the cold air return)

I've decided I need to build a bigger brooder as my 18x18x18 cube doesn't hold 25 chicks very well. Will be setting up the bathtub and brooder lamp in a couple of days to accomodate....

[dixieland]

Busy people either thrive or burn ourselves out completely,lol!
If you are looking for a very easy, not totally ideal anwer to brooding chicks- You can always pick up a galvanized water trough at TSC. They run about $75. I dont like that they are opened at the top, But it might be an easy workaround for you for the time being

[vanalpaca]

I have 2 110 gal rubber tanks a. the farmhouse for older broodies. But I want to move chickens out of that house so I can move in a few more months...

I acquired a 50 gal rubbermaid tote that fits into the bathtub until they can be unsupervised for 2 days at a time. I suspect about 2 weeks and they will be ready for the tanks. But chickens in the house make it too dusty with feather dust and spring rains will be here then.

We are all good for the time being. Got in unmedicated feed and have tetracycline for the water.

Day 2 and all are doing ok.

[Mike Gilbert]

Why on earth are you medicating the water for baby chicks?   Also, I strongly believe in "medicated" feed.
It is just a low dose of amprolium to allow the chicks to build up a natural immunity to coccidiosis.  It is better to use it at this stage, and much less costly, than having to medicate them later and have unthrifty birds.

[Don]

We use a variety of brooders ranging from wood shipping boxes to the black plastic "masonry tubs" from Lowes.  You can fix a 1/4" welded wire cover and fasten a brooder light on top so that the light shines thru the wire.  You want the heat or light towards one end of the brooder so that the chicks can find a temperature that is best for their age, closer to the light if its cold, further away as the day warms up. We can cover portions of the wire top on colder nights.  But it's good for the water and feed to be out in the cooler end.  The chicks need to begin to acclimate to normal temps slowly but consistently.   

Some of the feed in our area includes an additive called Apex, supposedly a low level medication.  But I've gotten used to keeping cocci meds on hand especially when the weather begins to warm.  I watch the birds especially when they are moved to a new brooder or pen and extra careful if I put two different groups together. These are the times they are exposed to the most new bugs.

[Beth C]

I've gotten used to keeping cocci meds on hand especially when the weather begins to warm.

Ditto. In fact, I just go ahead and keep them on a maintenance dose until they are at least 6 months. I've found here in the hot, humid south the medicated feed alone just doesn't do it. I also try to avoid hatching in hot months, although the birds threw me a curve this year - I still only have 2 birds laying! The girl at the feed store said she has heard the same thing from most of her customers this year, so I guess it really is the wacky weather.